1965 Ford Econoline Pickup Restoration

Steering Wheel Restoration - Finished!

2009-04-22T10:42:00.010-04:00

This is the third and final entry pertaining to the restoration of the steering wheel. The first part of the restoration process can be seen by clicking here.

I give up! After approximately 40 hours of filling, shaping, filing, grinding, sanding, priming, wet-sanding and painting, I can't take it anymore!

The finish is not perfect for concours show quality but it is more than good enough for a daily driver and a casual car show. The problems were the large size of the steering wheel, the small irregular-shaped surface area and quick-drying nature of the lacquer paint. It takes a lot of time to paint the entire surface and overspray tends to flash over the already painted surfaces and that prevented obtaining a totally glossy surface.

My first attempts were made using DupliColor Engine Enamel because it has an extrememely hard and durable finish. I found it very difficult to get the desired finish without runs. More wet-sanding between coats.

I finally settled upon two coats of DupliColor Black Lacquer with wet sanding between the coats.

Below is the New Old Stock steering wheel that I will be installing in my pickup. Notice the profile of the ribs.

The ribs on the steering wheel that is the subject of this restoration project were severely worn down from many years of use. I decided to fill in what was remaining of the ribs for a better appearance.

As usual you can see larger versions of these photos at flickr.

If you have any questions or would like to comment you can email me.

ENJOY THE RIDE !!!!

The Truck is Home - Finally!

2009-02-26T00:18:00.014-05:00

Fresh from the paint booth at Maaco, Albany, NY. The truck was delivered Tuesday afternoon via flatbed truck. The color is the same as when it was painted in April 2007, 2006 Corvette Monterey Red.

Click on the photos to see larger versions. Click "Back" on your browser to return here.

Monterey Red is a three-stage paint which which has a red tintcoat under the clearcoat.

The cracked factory seams on the A-pillars were repaired by welding and filling. Hopefully, this time the repair is permanent.

Photos of the problem areas and the repair work can be seen by clicking here. Return to this page by using your browser's "Back" button.

The rear corners of the bed had cracked seams also. Patch panels were welded in. The seam that is visible is actually a false seam that was created to look like the factory seam.

Because the color is a three-stage paint which is nearly impossible to blend it was determined that it would be easiest to wet sand and repaint the truck inside and out.

Fred C. of Rhode Island supplied four original equipment 14" wheels. The crew at Maaco sandblasted and finished them with epoxy paint.

As usual you can see larger versions of these photos at flickr.

If you have any questions or would like to comment you can email me.

ENJOY THE RIDE !!!!

Steering Wheel Restoration - Stage Two

2009-02-11T22:57:00.006-05:00

In the previous blog entry I showed the condition of the steering wheel before the restoration process. I also showed how I filed the cracks to enlarge them to make it easier to work the filler into the cracks.

The photo below shows that same section of the steering wheel after it was sandblasted to remove the paint and clean out the filed cracks. That will make the filler adhere better.

Click on photos for larger versions. Click "Back" on your browser to return to this page.

I use PC-7 Epoxy Paste for many tasks. It has a 60 working time which is good for jobs that require a lot of tedious work like filling the cracks on steering wheels! When it cures it can be machined, drilled, tapped, sawed, filed and painted. It adheres to most everything and can be used to seal gas and water tanks, pressure tanks and even cracks in basement walls.

You can buy it in hardware stores, Home Depot, Eastwood and others. It comes in cans ranging from 8 ounces to 8 pounds.

I mix epoxy pastes, epoxy adhesives, wood fillers and Bondo body fillers on plastic laminate samples that I pick up at Home Depot. The small samples are very handy for small jobs. The large samples are great for tasks requiring more material such as this task of filling cracks in a steering wheel.

Unfortunately, the only large samples I have on hand have this black and white speckle pattern. It makes it a bit harder to see the PC-7 against the pattern. C'est la vie!

PC-7 is a very stiff product to work with. It is mixed using equal amounts from each can. A variation of up to 20% of either component will not affect the bond strength.

In the next blog entry I will have photos and descriptions of the filling and shaping processes. So, stay tuned!

As usual you can see larger versions of these photos at flickr.

If you have any questions or would like to comment you can email me.

ENJOY THE RIDE !!!!

Steering Wheel Restoration - Stage One

2009-02-05T18:42:00.018-05:00

The "Econoline Pickup Special" came with a white steering wheel in place of a black steering wheel.

From May 1, 1965 through July 20, 1965 Ford offered an "Econoline Pickup Special" version of the pickup truck. The truck was upgraded with Bright Body Side Molding, Falcon Wheelcovers, Chrome Bumpers, Chrome Driver's Side Mirror, Rear Corner Windows, 6.95 x 14 PR W.S.W. Tires and Special Poppy Red Paint. The value of these items was $251.90.

Since this was a Ford factory promotion program, buyers got the package free of charge or at least they were supposed to get it for free!

In this blog entry and two subsequent entries I will document the restoration process of this steering wheel. When it is finished it will be sold on eBay because I have a NOS (New Old Stock) steering wheel to replace this one.

These photos show how the years and environmental damage have been cruel to the hard rubber causing cracks to develop.

Click on photos for larger versions. Click "Back" on your browser to return to this page.

It is important to enlarge and clean out the cracks so that they can be filled with epoxy paste.

In the next entry I will post photos of the steering wheel after it has been media-blasted to remove the paint. Photos of the filling process will also be posted.

As usual you can see larger versions of these photos at flickr.

If you have any questions or would like to comment you can email me.

ENJOY THE RIDE !!!!

Paint Update

2008-12-19T10:56:00.004-05:00

I would like to thank all of the concerned blog watchers for their interest in this project. I have received emails wanting to know the reason why there have been no new updates to the blog. This is the latest status of the repaint for all of you concerned blog watchers.

Yesterday I spoke with Mike R. at his Maaco shop in Albany, NY. Mike wanted to install a new windshield before final painting to make sure the body work on the A-pillars did not change the windshield opening.

The windshield that was delivered by Harmon AutoGlass was mislabeled and a replacement took two weeks to be delivered. When they attempted to install the correct windshield it was discovered that the bodywork done to the left A-pillar caused the new windshield to be a bit too tight. The windshield went in with difficulty and the rubber gasket in the lower left corner was distorted.

The windshield was removed and taken back to the Harmon shop where the lower left corner was ground down a bit to make it less tight. It did not get back to the Maaco shop until the week of December 8.

The windshield was installed with no problem and removed. The truck was then given a second coat of base color, a coat of tinted clear and the final coat of clearcoat.

Last week upstate NY and New England endured a pretty serious ice storm that caused power outages throughout the region and Mike's three shops were without power for five days. Even though we live sixty miles north of Albany in a colder area, we were OK. We have a Guardian standby generator that runs on LP gas just in case we have a power failure. We didn't need it....this time!

The work that remains is to paint the small pieces such as the glove box door, instrument bezel, door access panels, ashtray and grill. The body has to be wet-sanded and buffed. The set of wheels that Fred C. of Rhode Island supplied for the project have to be sandblasted and painted with black epoxy paint.

This is the beginning of the busy season for body shops in the region because of snow and ice-related accidents. My truck has always been a fill-in project for the shop and has never been a priority for neither Mike nor myself. With that in mind, I don't expect to see the truck again until January or possibly later.

Now you know.

In the meantime, I invite you to check out some photos of my cute grandsons.

Email me: Ron B.

Hubcaps

2008-12-05T16:23:00.010-05:00

I decided a long time ago that I didn't want to put alloy wheels on the truck. You may have a different opinion but I don't like the look of alloy wheels on older vehicles.

It is not a matter of cost. Having the stock wheels refinished along with the cost of hubcaps or wheelcovers in great condition is actually more expensive then even new alloy wheels! Am I crazy or what?

So, with that in mind....I have a great deal for some lucky guy.... or gal!

About a year ago I was the winner of an eBay auction for 4 NOS (New Old Stock) FORD Hubcaps to fit 13" wheels. That was the good news. The bad news was that I own a pickup with 14" wheels!

I do not have a use for them and it is time to make room on my shelves. I do not intend to make any money on these hubcaps. I would simply like to get back some of what I paid for them.

These hubcaps will fit 13" wheels that were used on Ford vehicles, Falcons, Fairlanes, Econolines etcetera in the 1960's.

HONESTY IS THE BEST POLICY

The eBay seller stated these hubcaps were NOS. They were not. Pretty close in quality to NOS but not perfect.

These hubcaps were obviously installed at one time probably for a very short period of time. It is possible that they were used on a display truck in a showroom. But I doubt that they have seen any road usage at all. They are too clean. They were probably removed and put on a shelf and forgotten about for a long time.

As I previously stated, they are not perfect. There is some very light scuffing and a small amount of very light scratches and a couple very small dents that can easily be pushed out. I would recommend that they be repaired by someone who can do "paintless body repair," Dent Doctor for instance.

I paid $175 for the hubcaps and I would like to get $150 for them. PayPal is OK. For that price you will get USPS Priority Mail shipping with delivery confirmation. If you don't like them, send them back for a refund minus the shipping costs. How's that for a deal?

By the way, if you know of anyone who has 4 hubcaps of the same style in great conditon that will fit 14' wheels let me know. I have a few dozen in my possession but none look as good as these.

You can see larger versions of the photos by clicking here

If you are interested in purchasing these hubcaps please contact me

ENJOY THE RIDE !

Refinishing Parts

2008-10-13T13:42:00.011-04:00

Most of the components that were removed prior to body and paint work are now restored. Parts were washed, media-blasted, primed and painted using Dupli-Color lacquers and Engine Enamels.

Some parts such as the defroster nozzles required different techniques. When the nozzles were removed from the vehicle they were just tossed in a box with other parts. After a couple years they got deformed. Fortunately, they are made out of a cheap cardboard material and were easy to repair.

I soaked them in warm water for a few minutes to soften the material and used thin strips of wood cut to the size of the defroster outlets and placed them into the slots as the cardboard dried. Perfect!

Then, I gave them a quick sandblasting to clean them. I noticed that there were a couple rips (green arrows) in the material and I used cyanoacrylate adhesive to repair the rips. I then saturated the nozzles with the cyanoacrylate to strengthen them. It soaked right in. If you attempt this method make sure that you use hand protection such as rubber or nitrile gloves.

Cyanoacrylate adhesive is sold under these names: Krazy Glue, Super Glue, instant glue and others.

All of the parts including the nozzles were finished with lacquer prime and engine enamel.

There are dozens of parts that have been finished just the those above. Now, where is that body so that I can start putting it back together!

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr page. Just be sure to hit the "Back" button on your favorite browser to return to this blog.

Email me: Ron B.

Body Work - Again!

2008-10-03T10:34:00.022-04:00

"Why Maaco?" Some might be asking that question and this is the simple answer....no other shop would take on the restoration work. I can assure you that this was definitely not a $200 special!

Although the body did not have any rusted-through (body rot) areas other than the tailgate there were trim holes that I wanted filled with weld and many small dents. Mike R, the owner of the Maaco Shop in Albany, NY came to my house to appraise the work needed and decided that he would take the job if I was not in a rush. I wasn't.

Body shop owners would rather replace a panel or a door, paint it and move onto the next job. It's quick and makes money quickly. Working body panels with hammers and dollies, smoothing and shrinking steel takes a lot of time and experience.

Mike employed an oldtimer, Patrick, who had experience working with the soft steel common to 1960's vehicles. He could work on the truck between other jobs. Patrick told me whenever I visited the shop how much he enjoyed working on the truck!

Over the next two years Patrick worked on the truck and put about 200 hours into it. Mike charged $45 per hour. That came out to about $9,000 just for the labor. Add in the cost of materials and paint and the cost was well over my original budget.

Photo above....Mike is straightening the equalizer bar bracket that was damaged in the shop. Notice how the bed has been covered and masked to protect the spray-in Rhinolining. Work was needed to correct the problem of the tailgate rubbing on the edge of the bed. That is the reason for the primer.

The truck was delivered back to me and if you have been following this blog you will remember that I had it up on jackstands for quite some time in my garage. I removed the axles and springs over a period of a few months and had opportunities to closely inspect the bodywork. There were a few problems that needed to be addressed.

Photo above.... The holes for the F-O-R-D letters were mistakingly filled in by Patrick. I spent hours measuring and marking the locations to drill new holes. I miscalculated! I drilled the holes exactly 1/2 inch too low and that mistake had to be fixed. In the future I will grind the studs off the letters and use adhesive to mount them.

Below is the original factory seam on the left A-pillar shown with a crack that was painted over. The green arrows point to the crack.

Under the paint is the factory seam. Apparently, after it was repaired, it cracked again before it was painted.

The fix was to weld a panel onto the backside. Hopefully, that will fix the problem permanently.

The same problem developed with the right side A-Pillar and the same fix was employed.

The two photos below show paint cracks that are actually hiding a much deeper problem. The joint between the two pieces of steel was very weak and had to be reinforced by welding a piece of steel to the panels from the backside.

The photo below shows the repaired seam.

The left rear corner did not have the same problem as the right side did. The flexible seam sealer did what it was supposed to do. It flexed which caused the paint to crack. It is a problem that I will have to live with.

The entire exterior and cab interior was scuffed to accept the new paint. It will be painted with the same color, 2006-7 Chevrolet Corvette, Monterey Red Metallic Tintcoat (80U), which is a three stage color. After the base coat is applied, a colored clearcoat is applied before the the final clearcoat.

I am supposed to get the truck back within a couple weeks. Yippee!

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr page. Just be sure to hit the "Back" button on your favorite browser to return to this blog.

Email me: Ron B.

Glass Polishing

2008-10-01T18:34:00.014-04:00

Polishing glass is not a quick job. You need the right tools,supplies, patience and a lot of time!

The photo below is of a piece of door glass for the 1965 Ford Econoline. It is quite difficult to take a photo that shows the clarity of the glass after it has been polished. You will have to take my word for the results. It looks pretty good! This single piece of glass took about two hours and about five dollars worth of supplies.

Eastwood sells a kit for polishing glass that includes the felt pad that you see below. It is made to be mounted in a drill. Eastwood claims that if you can't feel a scratch with a fingernail, it can be polished out with this kit.

Included in the kit is Rhodite Glass Polishing Compound. Rhodite is a natural occurring alloy of Gold and Rhodium. This Rhodite is extremely finely ground and mixed with water to make a paste.

Using the polishing pad in a drill is not fun. The drill is hard to hold and control because the pad wants to walk around the glass. The problem with the Eastwood pad is that it comes with a smooth shaft and I wanted to use my Porter-Cable Random Orbital Polisher.

I had a machinist, Josh W. of Kingsbury, NY create the adapter that is pictured below.

Now the Eastwood polishing pad can be used in my polisher. Much better!

Below is a 5-inch 3M Hookit pad that fits most polishing machines.

The loops on the pad and the hooks on the disks are similar to and work like Velcro.

3M makes films to polish glass. They range from coarse to fine. I used medium and fine to remove fine scratches in the glass. The main problem with polishing auto/truck glass is that except for the windshield, the glass is tempered. Tempered glass is extremely hard and it takes a lot of work and a lot of these films to get the desired results. It gets expensive.

While it is possible to polish glass including the curved glass in the corners of the pickup truck, it is a lot of work. Would it be better to send glass out to a shop to have it polished? Perhaps. But I am a glutton for punishment and there is a certain sense of pride attached to each and every part that I personally restore!

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr page. Just be sure to hit the "Back" button on your favorite browser to return to this blog.

Email me: Ron B.

Enjoy the Ride !

Another Vent Window Update

2008-09-05T19:08:00.005-04:00

What looks like a quick task actually took a couple hours to complete.

I reinstalled the pieces of stainless steel that protect the rear frame sections which are mounted to the division bars. In normal use, the vent window handles scratch this component which protects the factory black paint. Now it will protect the new chrome.

Rather than polish the stainless back to its original state I gave it a brushed finish to compliment the chrome.

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr page. Just be sure to hit the "Back" button on your favorite browser to return to this blog.

Email me: Ron B.

Enjoy the Ride !

Vent Window Update

2008-09-02T18:29:00.012-04:00

Instead of refinishing the vent window assemblies in the original black paint I decided to have everything that is visible chrome plated. Below are the vent window frames with the glass installed.

The glass was polished using a Porter-Cable random-orbital polisher and a felt pad with rhodite abrasive.

Below are the original vent window handles after being rechromed.

All of the newly chrome plated vent window components for the left window are shown below. The mounting frame was chrome plated because it was easier to plate the entire assembly rather than just the attached pivot.

The steel components were chrome plated by Tri-City Plating in Elizabethton, TN

The handles and pivot sockets were plated by R & D Finishing also in Elizabethton, TN

The next project is to reassemble these vent window components with the new division bars and rubber pieces.

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr page. Just be sure to hit the "Back" button on your favorite browser to return to this blog.

Email me: Ron B.

Enjoy the Ride !

Transmission, Shift Arms and Trunnions

2008-08-31T11:42:00.003-04:00

The 3-speed manual transmission was rebuilt using new bearings, seals and gaskets. The blocking rings and synchronizers were in good shape so they did not need to be replaced. Gary N. of Tri-County Motor Parts located in Glens Falls, New York assisted in the rebuild. He has many years of experience working on engines, transmissions and rear axles and currently is building engines for dirt track racing and muscle cars.

The original shift arms and trunnions were very worn and had developed excessive free-play. My favorite machine shop owner/operator, Josh W. of Kingsbury, New York and I came up with a simple solution.

Below are the trunnions before being turned down. Notice the wear.

Rather than fabricating from scratch it was determined that the trunnions could be turned down a minimal amount to make them true. Bronze bushings were pressed into the shift arms completing the upgrade.

All of the components were sandblasted and finished with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel.

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr page. Just be sure to hit the "Back" button on your favorite browser to return to this blog.

Email me: Ron B.

Enjoy the Ride !

Clutch Linkage

2008-08-29T10:15:00.027-04:00

Trying to take all possible free-play and slop out of the clutch linkage made it necessary to improve on every component designed by Ford. After consulting with machine shop owner Josh W. of Kingsbury, NY it was determined that it wouldn't be that difficult!

Other improvements to the clutch pedal assembly were previously described in an earlier blog entry.

All repaired and new items were sandblasted and finished with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel.

Below is a photo that shows the old and new clutch link rods. The old rod was fabricated from a 5/16" steel rod. The new rod was made with 3/8" steel which is much stiffer with little weight gain.

Notice how the old rod has worn away where it was inserted in the clutch pedal assembly. It would probably would have lasted for many more years before failing but it was a cause of slop in the operation of the clutch. This would have been a good candidate for frequent lubrication.

This end was redesigned with a Heim joint which made it necessary to modify the clutch pedal assembly. That change will be show in a photo further down on this page.

This is a view of the linkage rod where it connects to the equalizer bar, sometimes referred to a the "Z-bar." It too, was improved with the addition of a Heim joint.

Below is a close view of the clutch pedal assembly where the linkage rod connects. The factory method had a hole bored to accept the rod. It was held in place with a split pin. The modification was to bore the hole out to accept a stud that was machined to fit the Heim Joint. The threads are long enough to accept a nylon lock nut.

An overhead view of the Heim joint in place. Notice how the machined surface is long enough to accept Heim joint seals and washers.

The restored and improved equalizer bar is shown below. Notice how the original pins to mount the linkage were replaced with threaded studs to accept the new Heim joints.

This is the original equalizer bar chassis mount with a new stud. The new stud is identical to the factory design including the knurling on the stud as you can see in the photo just below.

Below is the restored mount complete with a new felt seal, plastic bushing and C-clip. Not seen in this photo is the small amount of Green Grease that was applied to the shaft.

A close view of one end of the equalizer bar. The original bore was destroyed when the bushing failed and the equalizer bar was being worn away by the mounting studs.

Originally Josh was planning to bore the shaft out, insert a repair sleeve and plug-weld it. A much simpler and elegant solution was to simply add material to the interior of the shaft with welding rod and machine the bore. Evidently, you can mount an eccentric item in a lathe and machine it.

Notice the new Heim joint mount which replaces the factory original.

The equalizer bar with the clutch linkage rod is shown below.

Below is the clutch pushrod. The factory original had a D-shaped hole at the end of the threaded portion that allowed length adjustment. The improved version uses a Heim joint. Josh machined a coupling to attach the new Heim joint to the threaded portion of the old push rod.

The three new Heim joints will be sealed against the elements with the seals shown below.

Shown below is the modified clutch pushrod mounted on the equalizer bar.

A closer view of the clutch pushrod temporarily mounted on the equalizer bar showing the seals in place. When mounted on the truck, the plain nut will be replaced with a nylon locknut.

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr page. Just be sure to hit the "Back" button on your favorite browser to return to this blog.

Email me: Ron B.

Enjoy the Ride !

New Seats

2008-05-19T15:39:00.020-04:00

I started this project about five and a half years ago. At that time I figured that seats from any newer vehicle had to be an improvement over the stock 1965 Econoline seats.

After joining the group, I learned that seats from a Pontiac Fiero would fit nicely so I started looking on eBay for Fiero seats. I ended up with a low-mileage 1988 Fiero GT instead!

The Fiero, bought with only 2,500 original miles and now with 19,000 miles, is my daily driver until the Econoline project is complete. My Fiero has been featured in Fiero Focus Magazine and also two consecutive Fiero Store calendars.

After a few years I decided to obtain and install original Econoline seats. They may not be the most supportive and comfortable but they will keep the truck more original. Since the truck is not going to be driven for long distances I will put up with minor discomforts.

I contacted Fred Carello of Rhode Island because I knew that he does top-notch interior work. He is a professional in every sense of the word and I recommend him to anyone who wants work done that will go beyond their expectations.

These are the seats before restoration. (Photo courtesy of Fred Carello)

The after photo show the better than new appearance.....

Notice the painted springs and frame, the new padding and the workmanship.....

Notice the silver piping and perfect stitching. The workmanship is worthy of a German luxury car.

I think you have to admit it. These seats are beautiful!

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr page. Just be sure to hit the "Back" button on your favorite browser to return to this blog.

Email: Fred Carello

Email me: Ron B.

ENJOY THE RIDE !

Parking Lights and Taillights

2008-04-25T09:33:00.017-04:00

There are no photos of the light assemblies before they were stripped of the sockets and chrome plated by Tri-City Plating Company in Elizabethton, TN.

Another step that is not documented with a photo is the enlargement of the socket holes in the taillights. The holes were enlarged to 3/4" using a step-less cone drill bit.

The billet aluminum/brass sockets were purchased from Ron Francis Wiring.

The sockets were mounted into the reflectors using Dielectric Grease.

Care must be used when tightening the large nuts because of the ease of damaging the fine threads. After installing the sockets I applied a couple drops of cyanoacrylate cement to the threads.

Another step not documented is that the white insulators were removed in order to fully slide the waterproof boot up against the nuts.

I used GOOP sealer/contact cement to attach the boots to the sockets.

Dielectric grease was used inside the sockets and on the bulb contacts to prevent corrosion.

Larger versions of these photos are available at my Flicker page.

Contact me here with comments, suggestions or questions.

Enjoy The Ride!

Carburetor and Spacer

2008-04-23T12:58:00.013-04:00

The spacer was cleaned, media blasted and refinished using Dupli-Color Gray Engine Primer, DE1612 and Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum, DE1650.

The linkage was media blasted and refinished using Eastwood Carb Renew Silver Aerosol, Item 10187 Z.

The brass fitting was brushed, polished and refinished with Eastwood Diamond Clear Satin, Item 10300 Z.

The NOS carburetor was purchased on an eBay auction a few years back for about $40! It pays to look at auctions that list items for Mustangs, Falcons, Fairlanes etc.

This carburetor will be used to get the vehicle up and running. After that the carburetor (and distributor) will be replaced with EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection).

Notice the "HI & LO" settings for the accelerator pump linkage. These settings correspond to the following conditions:

HI - 50 Degrees Fahrenheit and below
LO - Above 50 Degrees Fahrenheit and/or 5000 Feet Altitude

I replaced the clip that holds the link in place from the spacer to the carburetor with a washer and cotter pin combination.

As always, larger versions of these photos are available here. If you do visit my Flickr site, be sure to hit "Back" on your browser to return to this blog.

Contact Me

Rearview Mirror Restoration

2008-04-22T16:10:00.013-04:00

Can it be saved?

I covered the glass with two layers of Scotch brand heavy duty packing tape to prevent damage when blasting the rust with aluminum oxide grit.

The following paints were used. They are available in economical, large spray cans:

2 coats of Dupli-Color, DAP1692 Primer
2 coats of Dupli-Color, T177 Gunmetal Gray Lacquer
3 coats of Dupli-Color, DAL1695 Acrylic Lacquer Clear

The sunvisor mounts were painted using the same method and materials.

Larger versions of these photos are available at my Flickr site. Please click on your browser's "Back" button to return to this page.

Send me an email here.

Black is Beautiful

2008-03-18T14:58:00.008-04:00

BLACK OXIDE, that is!

I am nearing the end of refinishing components and it is time to get to the small, tedious chores. Ugh? Yippee!

Numerous small parts were removed from the truck and because many were in such good and serviceable condition, I decided to refinish a good number of them instead of purchasing replacements.

I mounted a die in a vice and used a socket and drill to spin the bolts to clean the threads.

The pieces were blasted using aluminum oxide. They are starting to look nice but the next steps caused an amazing transformation.

I used Eastwood's Metal Blackening Kit to refinish the parts to like-new condition. The kit includes all of the necessary components and is easy to use. I do have one suggestion to anyone who is thinking of buying the kit....use it with a lot of ventilation. The sealer has a horrible odor and the pieces take a long time to cure.

As always you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr site. Use your browser's "Back" button to return to this blog.

Thanks for looking and....

Enjoy The Ride!

A New Blog - Your Help is Requested !!

2008-02-29T10:01:00.007-05:00

This is the link to my new blog. This new blog has a very simple purpose...to direct users to businesses that have parts and services that are useful to owners of 1961-67 Ford Econoline Trucks.

You can make contributions too! Follow the directions in the column on the right side of the new blog for all of the details.

Hopefully, the response will be large enough to make the list grow large and helpful.

Regards,

Ron B. aka "YahooRon"

"Enjoy The Ride!"

Vent Window Disassembly

2008-02-20T00:01:00.009-05:00

This is the vent window assembly from the left door. The rubber is petrified and as hard as a rock. I consulted the shop manual and studied the assembly for a while and could not determine how it was to be disassembled.

The following photos are of the right door vent window assembly.

There is a cam-shaped washer, a retainer, on the pivot shaft that had me baffled for quite some time. I had the upper pivot socket removed and I could not determine how the bottom pivot shaft was removed from the frame.

The yellow arrows on the photos above and below point to the retainer that had me baffled.

The washer in the photo below shows the solution. Notice the hole in the retainer. There is a smooth section that is in line with the point. The rest of the hole has splines. The retainer must be aligned in a certain direction....simple yet elegant.

The photo below shows the design of the pivot shaft. Notice there are two splines that are wider than the adjacent splines. The groove is where the retainer is located when the window is assembled for use. The stop prevents the retainer from moving out of position on the shaft.

By simply turning the retainer in the direction of the wide splines and tapping the pivot shaft with a small hammer the retainer will slip off and the window can be removed from the mounting frame.

I removed the glass from the frames and sent the frames to Tri-City Plating for chrome plating. While not original, I prefer the look of chrome instead of black paint in this application.

Also, today, I wrapped the front bumper to ship to Tri-City Plating for repair and chrome plating. The bumper is original and rust free but it is dented and twisted slightly.

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos by visiting my Flickr page. Please return to this page by clicking the "Back" button of your browser. Thanks for visiting!

Gas Pedal Linkage Grommet

2008-02-12T18:01:00.000-05:00

Because the truck is at the shop I cannot take photos of this project. This one be a stand-in.

Necessity is the mother of invention!

This is my method to fabricate a "grommet" to seal the floor opening where the gas pedal linkage passes through it.

Remove the pedal and pedal bracket and clean, polish and paint the shaft where it goes through the floor.

Start with a 2' long piece of 5/8" heater hose. Slit the hose lengthwise and slip it over the shaft that goes through the floor. You will need a utility knife and a pair of snips to cut and trim the hose for this project.

Keep the hose as long as possible to help seal the opening. Trim, trim, trim! Trial fit. Keep trimming and fitting. There will finally be a point where the hose no longer interferes with the operation of the shaft and the hose fits into the hole in the floor. Stop at that point. As my late dad would say, "Anything better than that and you'll ruin it!"

Clean the floor on both sides with a rotary wheel, brush or sandpaper to remove all crud. Install the assembly with the hose attached. Make sure it still works! Buy a NEW tube of Goop at the local hardware or big box store. It doesn't matter which formulation you buy....they're all the same!

Apply the Goop on both sides of the floor where the hose makes contact. Flood it in to the point where it is about to drip or sag. Warning, do not allow the Goop to enter into the hose or your pedal won't work!

Use a heat gun or hairdryer to speed the skin-over. After that point, you will no longer need to force cure it. Allow the Goop to harden for at least 24 hours before rotating the shaft. That will prevent the assembly from possibly ruining the seal.

Look at the seal and add more Goop if necessary to build it up. It should not be necessary to lube the shaft unless it it binding.

Filling the Master Cylinder

2008-02-04T21:36:00.000-05:00

Because of miscommunication between management of the body shop and the workers, the floor of the cab was covered with sheetmetal and no access nor mounting holes were drilled.

I assure you that there are holes now! An aluminum foil "funnel" was used to fill the master cylinder with brake fluid to prevent spillage.

Also notice that other holes were made for the parking brake assembly and mounting bolt. As other holes are discovered to be needed, they will also be provided.

An Empty Feeling!

2008-02-04T13:56:00.000-05:00

For the first time since April 23, 2007 the truck is not occupying space in the garage. It has been sent via AAA flatbed truck to the Maaco shop in Albany, NY. There are a few issues with the paint that need to be corrected.....issues that were discovered after being up close and personal with for the past 9 months!

The motor is on the stand and waiting to be installed as soon as the truck returns. The only remaining original parts of the motor are the 1966 Ford Falcon 200 C.I.D. block, connecting rods and crank. The head is a replacement from a 1967.

The block was boiled, decked and bored. The crank was ground and polished. The head was given a three angle valve job with all new components except for the rocker shaft and rockers.

Front Hubs and Drums

2008-01-31T17:25:00.000-05:00

The front drums were sent to C. H. Topping in Long Beach, California to be ventilated by drilling evenly spaced holes in three rows. According to their website there are many benefits to drilling brake drums instead of converting to disc brakes.

From the C. H. Topping website:

"The first question people ask is about water and dust. If you've driven a drum brake equipped car through water you know braking is non-existent. With holes in the drums, centrifugal force not only evacuates dust, but water immediately as well. But the main benefit is the fact that when drums are vented properly, so as to eliminate balance and material integrity problems, they virtually eliminate fade, which is.the primary reason discs replaced brakes while racing at the dry lakes. He figured drums in the first place. Gasses are vented as well, as the holes create what amounts to a venturi effect, venting gases created by compression of air between the shoes and drum that would otherwise be trapped in a stock, unvented drum, hindering braking efficiency. This also holds true with disc brakes (believe it or not), so venting is beneficial here, too."

"Another benefit is reduced unsprung weight, which improves ride quality. Surprisingly, a brake disc weighs three times what a drum does, and calipers are four times heavier than a wheel cylinder. Cars designed with discs take all those extra pounds (approximately 60 total) into consideration in their suspension system."

Another benefit that is not mentioned on the C. H. Topping website is that ventilating brake drums is a lot less expensive than converting to disc brakes!

Studs properly staked to secure the drums to the hubs....

After I got the drums/hubs back from C. H. Topping, I abrasive blasted them and painted them using the same heat-resistant paint that I used on the rear drums.

While I was waiting for the paint to dry I soaked and softened the grease seals. I made "soaking containers" from pieces of aluminum foil and I used motor oil to soften the leather sealing material. Notice the air bubbles escaping from the leather as the oil soaked in.

I installed new roller bearings and seals before putting the completed assemblies on the vehicle.

A bearing greaser makes it simple to lubricate bearings....

This Alemite cordless grease gun one of the handiest tools to have around the garage. It is a heck of a lot easier to use than either a manual or pneumatic version. In fact, my wife, Doris, really enjoys using it. Anything to make the wife happy!

Notice the Green Grease that I used to lubricate the bearings. Green Grease is a very tenacious synthetic lubricant that is hard to clean up. It is very sticky and waterproof. In other words....perfect for lubricating.

After flushing and bleeding the brake system we mounted the old wheels and tires so that the truck could be taken away to the paint shop to have a few issues corrected.

Now it is time to get serious with refinishing the remaining parts so that the reassembly process can proceed when the truck returns in February or March. With any luck at all, the truck will be on the road in the Summer of 2008!

How Midas Destroyed My Hubs!

2008-01-31T16:41:00.004-05:00

A real heart-breaker...or...Don't even think of taking your classic vehicle parts to Midas!

I had purchased new Raybestos brake drums for the front of my truck. After making a few calls to local shops in and around Queensbury, New York, I decided to allow Midas of Queensbury to replace the old drums with the new.

I was assured that they knew what to do. They supposedly knew how to remove the old and install the new drums. They "knew" that the old drums had to be removed by cutting the areas around the studs. They "knew" that the studs and drums had to be staked to properly mount the drums.

When I went to retrieve the drum/hub assemblies, they were not attached! I was told that "it wasn't necessary." I also noticed that the studs were smashed where they used a heavy hammer to remove the drums! Arrrrrgh!

They agreed to purchase new studs, install them and to properly mount the drums. A couple days later this is what I saw....

My front wheel hubs were destroyed! Notice the bulge in the hub around the stud. Notice that the studs were not even the correct ones!

Notice also that the flange is bent and the studs are not straight. The dummies at the Midas shop assured me that they knew what they were doing. Yeah right!

I was able to get a refund from Midas but then I had to locate replacement front hubs. They would not pay for that added expense.

I would like to thank Vic L. of North Hills, California for supplying me with a pair of replacement hubs and shipping them to C. H. Topping of Long Beach, California.

The next entry to this blog will be a continuation of the front brakes story.

A Creeper's Best Friend !!!

2007-12-24T14:55:00.000-05:00

This is how I keep my tools at hand when I am cruising in my creeper.

I made this handy item from a half-sheet baking tray and four casters that I purchased at Lowes. I used Pop rivets to attach the casters to keep the profile of the fasteners as low as possible. It has a lot of strength due to the commercial nature of the tray and is very light because of the aluminum construction. The approximately 3/4 inch sides keep tools and other items from falling off.

You are welcome to email me with questions and comments.
As always you can see larger versions of all of the blog photos at my Flickr site.

Enjoy the Ride!

Steering Column and Shifter - Part 2

2007-12-24T14:26:00.000-05:00

The steering column and shift mechanism are ready to be installed in the vehicle!

This is the before appearance of the shift mechanism complete with the overspray of the white paint from when the vehicle was previously painted.

I was able to purchase a NOS (new old stock) shifter tube and a NOS bracket. Both of the original parts were worn because of years of neglect. There were only remnants of grease on the original components and there was a large amount of free-play in the mechanism.

I was also able to purchase replacements for the spring washers as described in the previous blog entry.

After cleaning all components of grease and grime, I media blasted them. A coat of lacquer prime and three of black gloss lacquer changed the appearance of all the components.

The gearshift handle was sent out for chrome and a new knob was installed when it was ready for assembly into the newly painted shift tube.

As always, you can email me and you can view larger photos at my Flickr site.

ENJOY THE RIDE !!!

Steering Column and Shifter - Part 1

2007-12-23T14:42:00.000-05:00

Every little project turns into something more time-consuming and involved. The steering column and gear shift linkage was one of those "little" projects.

Recently there was some discussion pertaining to the "springy, wavy washers" on the Yahoo "OldEconolines" Auto Group. Someone mentioned that they were called "spring tension washers." Someone else referred to them as "Belleville Washers" and that they were available at McMaster-Carr. Good leads both!

I visited the McMaster-Carr website and after much searching I found the perfect replacements for the "Curved Springs" used on the shifter tube.

I used digital calipers to check the original washer dimensions and a scale to determine the amount of weight needed to deflect the spring.

The original washer is on the left in the photos and the replacement is on the right side.

The replacements that I used are McMaster-Carr part number: 9715K91 and they are called "High Carbon Steel Curved Disk Springs."

The manufacturer is Gardner Spring and their part number is MU750-160. Gardner Spring calls them "Curved Springs." The cost is $10.64 for a package of 10 plus shipping from McMaster-Carr.

The next post to the blog will show the restoration of the steering column and shifter.

If you would like to contact me via email click here.
If you would like to see larger versions of these photos click here.

J-Bolts

2007-12-23T14:01:00.000-05:00

Because the original J-bolts that held the fuel tank straps were destroyed in the process of removing the fuel tank, I needed new J-bolts. After wasting time trying to locate replacements, I decided to fabricate my own. It was suggested to me that I could use a threaded rod and bend it into the proper shape but there had to be a better way. I went to the local Lowe's store and found the perfect candidates for conversion....3/8 inch x 6 inch eye bolts. This is what I used:

Notice the original shape on the left side of the photo. The original J-bolt was cut to remove the fuel tank because the nut was frozen to the bolt. Notice how the eye bolt is very close in size to the original.

I cut the eye bolt at the spot shown in the photo. After filing the rough edge, I secured the bolt in a vice and heated the entire non-threaded area with a torch until it was bright red. The steel was then very easy to form into the proper shape with a pair of slip-joint pliers. I then reheated the bolt and quenched it in cold water to temper the steel somewhat.

After it was cool and dry, I media blasted it and painted it with lacquer prime and silver metallic lacquer. The total cost was about $2 for the two eye bolts and about a half hour time.

If you would like to contact me via email click here.
If you would like to see larger versions of these photos click here.

Brake and Clutch Pedals

2007-11-21T13:04:00.001-05:00

I was not pleased with the excessive play nor the safety factors in the brake and clutch pedals so I enlisted the expertise of a machinist to help with the problems.

Josh W. of Kingsbury, NY owns a very impressive collection of industrial metal working machines including computer controlled lathes and milling machines. The photo below shows the current finished appearance of the two pedals but the real story about the improvements starts below.

The photo below shows the brake pedal shafts, old and new. The original shaft used a C-clip to hold the pedal assembly to the master cylinder. A brief discussion with Josh ensued and we decided that a threaded shaft with a lock nut would be a better idea.

The photo below shows the old shaft after it was removed from the pedal assembly. The removal was a matter of grinding the weld away and pressing the old shaft out. Jose took careful measurements and used a lathe to turn the new shaft. The shaft was threaded to accept a 5/8" fine thread nylon lock nut.

The photo below shows the newly welded shaft in place along with the locknut.

The old master cylinder pushrod bolt is on the left in this photo. Notice the extreme amount of erosion of the steel caused by rust. Josh fabricated a new bolt from hex stock and is identical to the factory-supplied bolt with the exception of depth of the hex head. It was decided that deeper is better.

The photo below shows the old sleeve on the bottom and the newly fabricated sleeve on the top. Notice the grooves cut into the old sleeve from many years of non-lubrication and the grinding actions of road debris.

These are new bushings for the clutch pedal. I purchased them from Mac's for a couple bucks.

This is how the new bushings look in the old clutch pedal. They are held in place with blue Locktite.

The photo below shows the new shaft and bushings in place inside the old clutch pedal assembly.

Let me conclude this entry by saying that the work that was performed by Josh exceeded my expectations. There is no more free-play in the pedals.

The fabrication of the three items cost approximately $160. Expensive? I don't think it was. It took time to measure, plan and machine these components. Now I have pedals that work like new and the brakes are probably safer than new.

If you would like to contact me via email click here.
If you would like to see larger versions of these photos click here.

Enjoy the Ride!

The Steering Box Revisited

2007-11-19T09:58:00.001-05:00

If you remember from a previous posting (Oct 14), I cleaned and reassembled a recently acquired steering box with synthetic lube and the addition of a new sector shaft seal. No other parts were replaced.

The steering box was installed in the truck with new bolts and they were torqued to the proper setting. The pitman arm and drag link were installed, torqued and the cotter pins were installed and then.....

A New Old Stock (NOS) steering shaft assembly was listed on eBay!

The above photo is from the eBay listing.

Always looking for ways to improve the truck prompted me to bid. I was the winning bidder using my sniping software and now it was time to remove the steering box, the one that was already installed! So out came the steering box and it was disassembled...again.

The new steering shaft arrived and the grease was so old that the worm would not turn. It was totally frozen. I submerged the assembly in mineral spirits for a couple days and eventually I got it apart.

There was still some dried grease that had to be removed so out came the Dremel with a brass brush to clean the gears and ball returns.

Some of the photos in this entry are in grayscale instead of color. I had the camera on the wrong white balance setting and no amount of color correction would work.

The photo below shows all of the components, steering shaft, ball nut, return guides, clamp, screws and balls cleaned and ready to go....

This is a job that anyone can do! I never went this deep into a steering box before but it really is quite simple and definitely not "brain surgery!"

After putting the ball nut on the steering shaft it is necessary to install the balls, all 62 of them. There are two circuits of 31 balls each so they have to be carefully counted and divided. 20 balls are dropped into one hole of the ball nut. The shaft is slowly turned as the balls are dropped into the hole until 20 balls are swallowed up.

There are two ball return guides that consist of two halves. Refer to the first photo which shows all of the components.

The remaining 11 balls for the first circuit are put into a return guide half section using grease to hold them in place.

The other half section of a ball return guide is placed over the balls in the grease-filled half. The assembled ball return guide is then placed into the guide holes of the ball nut.

The second circuit is filled using the same method as the first circuit. When all of the balls are installed, the second ball return guide is filled with the remaining balls and installed.

The ball return guide clamp is placed over the ball returns and the two screws are installed. Now that you see how easy the job is I am sure that anyone can do it. It just takes some patience.

If you ever attempt to go this deep into a steering box, I recommend that you have lots of paper towels and rags to clean the greasy mess. Make sure that you have a half sheet baking pan or something similar to catch all of the small parts. Don't lose any of the balls!

In the above photo you can see what a brand new gear looks like. There is no gauling on the teeth. Usually, gauling on these teeth indicate that the sector gear was over tightened to remove free play.

I reassembled the steering box using Green Grease and another new sector shaft seal. I installed the steering box (photo below) and reinstalled the pitman arm and drag link.

Wow! What a difference! There is no free play at all now. There are no tight spots going from full left to full right. This truck is going to drive like new!

Be sure to vote in the poll that relates to this Steering Box story.

As always, there are larger versions of these photos at my Flickr site in the "Steering Box" Set. Just make sure you use your browser's "Back" button to return to this page. I don't want you getting lost in cyberspace!

Parking Brake Assembly

2007-11-18T15:18:00.001-05:00

The parking brake assembly was a quick and easy restoration. It was simply washed, blasted and painted.

Even with three coats of lacquer you can see how rusty it was. It now has three coats of black lacquer to protect it. The shaft and ratchet pieces were finished in clear from Eastwood.

As always, there are larger versions of these photos at my Flickr site in the "Econoline Brakes" Set. Just make sure you use your browser's "Back" button to return to this page. We don't want you to get lost in cyberspace!

Rear Brake Assembly

2007-11-18T14:36:00.001-05:00

The rear brakes are now completely reassembled. I purchased new drums for all four corners and these are photos of the rear brakes.

I purchased Raybestos PG Plus brakes for two reasons. They are made in Canada and not China for one thing. The second reason is that the PG Plus (Professional Grade Plus) has a lifetime warranty vs. ninety days for the Chinese-made PG version.

I cleaned the drums with brake cleaner and media-blasted the drums with silicon carbide. The photo below is of the inside of one of the drums after cleaning and blasting.

I used Rust-Oleum High Heat Enamel on the drums. This product can withstand 1,200 degrees so it should be OK on the drums.

I have read that brake drums will radiate more heat when painted black than any other color and that black-painted drums will radiate more heat than those that are left unpainted or rusty.

Cooler brakes work better than hot brakes....no fade!

This photo shows the left rear brakes reassembled with all new Raybestos shoes and Dorman hardware. The new Monroe Gas-Magnum shock absorbers and painted parking brake cable are visible.

The painted axle, painted U-bolts, new brake tubing and refinished hydraulic brake "Y" connector are visible in addition to a close-up view of some of the new brake components.

The parking brake cable was degreased, media blasted and painted with three coats of lacquer. It was then lubed with white lithium grease from both ends and installed with refinished mounting components and parking brake components. The components at the far end of the cable are a bit out of focus due to the large iris opening of the camera which limits the depth of field.

As always, there are larger versions of these photos at my Flickr site in the "Econoline Brakes" Set. Just make sure you use your browser's "Back" button to return to this page. We don't want you to get lost in cyberspace!

Fuel Tank Restoration

2007-11-17T16:05:00.000-05:00

The fuel tank in my truck appeared to be OK. There were no dents nor visible holes. Since I am undertaking a "ground up restoration" I figured that it would better to play it safe.

There are not too many options with the Econoline. New tanks are not available. From what I gather from reading posts, there is a way of using a Mustang(?) tank or a Falcon(?) tank and relocating the filler pipe.

I decided to go a much easier route. I chose to have my tank restored by Gas Tank Renu. The process involves a steam cleaning followed by shot-blasting. The inside of the tank is coated with a brown polymer and inspected with a light and mirror to assure full coverage. The tank is then baked in an oven to cure the coating. The brown coating is visible around the sender hole in the photo below.

When the tank is removed from the oven and cool to the touch, it is then hand brushed with the same material in black. Black is not used inside the tank because it would be too difficult to see the coverage. Warranty tags are applied and then the tank is baked again to cure the outside.

The result is a fuel tank with a lifetime nationwide warranty! The cost is approximately $350 for the service. I had the same shop make new mounting straps with a thicker than stock steel.

I took the fuel gauge sender apart and carefully blasted it with silicon carbide. I assembled and tested it to check for proper operation and it works as it should.

When I place my next order from Mac's, I will buy a new COAF-9276-A "O" ring for $1.95. The result will be a sediment-free, rust-proof and leak-proof fuel tank and sender.

As always, larger photos are available at my Flickr page. Just make sure that you return to this page using the "Back" button on your browser.

My New Ride

2007-11-17T13:06:00.000-05:00

Have you ever wished that your creeper easily rolled over extension cords or concrete seams? Did you ever have a problem with the creeper rolling away when you tried to loosen or tighten a nut? The answer to both questions is probably "yes."

When the caster bearings on my $25 creeper started losing the steel balls and made it hard to maneuver, I knew that I had to find a solution. I knew that there was a creeper called "The Bone" with large caster wheels but the shape looked very confining to me. Some reviews of "The Bone" confirmed my suspicions about the confinement aspect but everyone raved about how easily it moved.

Further investigation revealed a creeper with large casters and a hand brake! It is the King Crawler by REL products and their products are made in Alabama. Here it is:

Notice the large casters which makes is very easy to move around under a vehicle:

Notice the hand brake which is within easy reach of the right hand:

The construction is very heavy duty and the frame is powder coated in silver. There is a headrest that is nothing more than a raised section of the foam padding. Unlike the $25 creeper that I previously owned, the headrest does not adjust but then again, I never adjusted it anyway.

The King Crawler is available at SJ Discount Tools for $96.75 plus shipping. It cost me $104.70 delivered via Fed Ex.

Rehabilitation of the Steering Box

2007-10-14T15:31:00.002-04:00

This is a long entry with twenty smaller photos so that it loads quicker. You can click on the photos for larger versions or visit my Flicker site for even larger versions of these same photos. Just make sure you return to this page to see the rest of the blog!

This job was not that hard to do. Was it messy? Yes. There was also the smell of 40 year old lube which I found unpleasant.

If you are considering whether or not you should disassemble your steering box....go for it! Do like I did and have some items close at hand....disposable vinyl gloves (at least 20), C-fold paper towels or a roll with the towels ripped and stacked, rags and a lined garbage can to drop the greasy towels and rags into. Mineral spirits and brake cleaner are helpful.

I find it is always helpful to have a commercial aluminum baking sheet pan or half sheet pan to put under the item being worked on. That will keep the removed parts from wandering and keep the bench clean. Commercial aluminum baking sheet pans are available at restaurant supply stores for a few dollars. I clean them with either brake cleaner or soap and water.

These pans have many uses....under axle hubs when doing brake jobs, taking things apart so small parts don't get lost, etc.

Below are the components of an early Econoline steering box. Missing from the photo are the sector shaft seal, lower bearing race, filler plug and adjusting screw lock nut.

This is the ball nut on the steering shaft. The U-shaped pieces (ball return guides) are made in two halves and they contain steel balls. On the inside of this ball nut are additional balls for a total of 62. This is a "Recirculating Ball" steering gearbox as opposed to a "Rack and Pinion" steering gear box.

The side cover has three mounting bolt holes and a threaded hole for the sector shaft adjusting screw.

Inside the side cover is a bushing with lubrication grooves. Notice the scratches probably caused by lack of lubrication and pitting on the sector shaft. The pitting was probably caused by moisture contamination of the old lubricant.

The sector shaft showing the signs of age. Notice the pitting and scoring and the grooves cut by the seal. I polished the shaft with emery cloth and 1000 grit paper but most of the defects will have to remain.

This is the empty steering box. I cleaned all of the original grease out of it. No other changes were made except for a new sector shaft seal.
An inside view of the steering box. The race for the lower bearing for the steering shaft is center, left. The bushing for the output end of the sector shaft is right, bottom.

New synthetic chassis lube was applied to the worm gear and worked into the interior of the nut.

Notice the galled surface of the tooth in the center of the photo below. It was probably caused by over-tightening of the sector shaft's adjusting screw. You can also see the taper of the teeth.

The reason that "play" is removed when the adjusting screw is tightened is because the sector's teeth are pushed deeper into the taper.
The lower bearing of the steering shaft is installed into the steering box and packed with lube. A portion of the bearing is visible on the left of center.
The steering shaft with nut is installed into the steering box.

The proper setting of the steering shaft bearing adjuster (marked with a light gray/green dot) is to measure the preload with an in-lb torque wrench to 4 - 5 inch pounds.

I made the adjustment by tightening the bearing adjuster by hand. I made the adjustment so that after there was no play in the shaft, I tightened it a bit more. Call me a "human torque wrench!"

The lock nut (marked with a dot of red paint) is tightened with a drift and hammer to insure the position of the bearing adjuster does not move.

The inside of the steering box filled with lube.

The Ford Shop Manual calls for a different method of assembly from this point on. They want the sector adjusting screw and shim installed on the sector followed by the side cover. This assembly is supposed to be installed as a single unit.

I decided a better method would be to fill the inside of the steering box with as much lube as possible with the sector installed.

I then installed the adjusting screw and shim onto the end of the sector and packed even more lube into the remaining cavities.

The inside of the side cover is coated with lube and a new homemade gasket is installed. When the cover was installed, lube squeezed out to further insure no air pockets were left in the box.

Below, the adjusting screw is visible entering the side cover's threaded hole. The side cover attaching bolts are then installed finger tight.

The adjusting screw is turned counter-clockwise to draw it into the cover. There must always be lash between the ball nut and sector gear teeth during this process.

Continue backing the adjusting screw out while finger tightening the attaching bolts. When the side cover is making contact with the steering box, make sure there is still some lash between ball nut and sector gear teeth.

Then and only then can the mounting bolts be tightened with a torque wrench to 15 to 22 foot pounds. The lock nut for the adjusting screw can be installed but not tightened at this time. The mesh load is then set and the lock nut tightened. It is a lot easier to do than it takes to read all of the steps!

The steering box is ready to be installed. If any other adjustments are necessary they can be made after the drag link is installed.

The steering box is now ready to install! Yippee!

The Rear Axle Work is Complete

2007-10-06T13:19:00.000-04:00

This was one heck of a long and expensive project! The work was long and tedious with plenty of cleaning, blasting and painting. All of the bearings and seals were replaced. New wheel cylinders and brake tubing were installed to complete the restoration. The total cost of the parts, materials and machine shop services was about $500. Shhhh....please don't tell my wife!

Various views of the finished axle.....

The axle is going to be reinstalled in the truck over the weekend.

Newly Discovered Problems

2007-10-05T11:27:00.000-04:00

The vehicle has been up on jack stands for the past few months and I happened to notice a defect in the paint.

The defect is a seam crack where the right rear corner is joined to the side panel. It appears to be a minor problem that will require a more flexible sealer and refinishing.

Since I noticed that problem I wanted to see what others there might be and I found these two problems. These are much more serious and they need to be addressed.

Were these stress cracks? Were these factory seams that opened up on the outside of the vehicle? There is no problem with the interiors of the A-pillars. It is obvious that these cracks were overlooked before the truck was painted because the paint flows into the cracks.

I have been in touch with the owner of the body shop and he plans to pick the truck up as soon as I have the axles re-installed and the brakes and steering are working.

Murphy was correct...."If something can go wrong, it will!"

A Startling Discovery!

2007-10-01T15:02:00.001-04:00

This is the rear axle vent that holds the brake line "Tee" onto the rear axle. This is something that I never imagined could be the cause of any problem. It is way too simple, right? WRONG!

This was a very interesting discovery in my restoration of the rear axle. I just naturally thought that the vent would have a large hole from one end to the other. But nooooooo! There is actually an orifice halfway down the length that was totally plugged with grease and dirt. Using brake cleaner and a small wire I was able to dislodge the debris.

After enlarging the photo, I noticed that the hole still had some blockage so I used a 1/16" drill bit to remove the rest of the blockage. Was this blockage the cause of the pitting of the gear teeth and roller bearings? Perhaps. Did the heat and/or condensation which had no escape path cause leaking seals? Possibly.

This was one of those easy to overlook details that make the restoration process a challenge.

The Front Axle Is Mounted!

2007-09-23T00:32:00.000-04:00

My wife and I mounted the front axle and tie rod Saturday evening. It went very smoothly and took only about 15 minutes.

Before I disassembled the tie rod for straightening, sandblasting and painting, I carefully measured the length of the tie rod with the ends still mounted in their original positions. The measurement was exactly 52 - 5/16" between the centers of the Zerk fittings.

When I mounted the new tie rod ends I used that same measurement and I have to believe that the toe-in setting will be very close to the factory specification. I plan to take it to a front end shop just to make sure the setting is perfect. How close will I be?

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr website. Be sure to return to this page by using the "Back" button on your browser.

Progress Report

2007-09-22T14:36:00.000-04:00

I finally finished the painting of the front and rear axles. After sandblasting and removing all traces of sand, I primed the axles and the tie rod with lacquer prime.

The next day I gave the axles and tie rod three coats of black lacquer. Yesterday I took the rear axle to the machine shop at Tri County Automotive Parts in Glens Falls to have all new bearings installed. As soon as I get it back it will be reinstalled. The inside of the rear axle was flashed with lacquer primer to prevent rusting.

These are various shots of the finished front axle which is to be installed today, Saturday.

I purchased all new bolts, nuts and washers to mount the new Monroe Gas-Magnum shock absorbers.

Very shortly, all new brake components that are currently stored in boxes will be installed. This is quite literally a "Ground Up Restoration!"

Just in case you are wondering why I use the reddish background for many of the photos in this blog, this is the simple answer.....it makes the subject of the photo pop. There is no distraction and you can see exactly what I am trying to show you.

The background is actually red rosin paper that comes on a 36" wide x 167 feet long roll at your favorite building supply store. It costs about $10 and is very useful around the house and garage.

Larger versions of these photos can be viewed at my Flickr website. Please use your browser's "Back" button to return to this page.

3 - 2 - 1 - Blastoff !!!

2007-09-20T13:30:00.000-04:00

This was a job that I really did not look forward to. It was messy and tiring.

My wife screened 50 pound bags of sand and filled the tank of the sandblaster. In total, we used 700 pounds of sand to clean the front and rear axles and the tie rod. 700 pounds!

As I wrote in a previous post to this blog, this type of sandblaster costs under $100 and comes with everything that you need except for the sand. A filling funnel and protective head shield were included with the sandblaster.

I did not use long pants and a long sleeve shirt as I normally would have (should have!) worn for sandblasting. I was careful to make sure that most of the sand would not ricochet back to me. Occasionally, I was peppered by sand. Take note of the fan which aided in blowing the dust away from the work area.

After sandblasting the three pieces, I used lacquer primer to keep rust from forming on the freshly cleaned steel. Bare steel and iron will rust very quickly if not sealed quickly. In fact, I tested the sandblaster the day before and because of the morning dew, the test area showed signs of rust.

The entire sandblasting process took about four hours. It took an additional hour to put the tools away and clean the sand from the driveway. We were exhausted!

Larger versions of these photos can be viewed at my Flickr page. Please use your browser's "Back" button to return to this page.

Enjoy the Ride!

Blast Off!

2007-09-15T02:01:00.000-04:00

Some folks have asked me about my blasting equipment so I figured that it was time for a little "Show and Tell."

My blasting cabinet is from TP Tools, model # 780-TL and it is made in the USA. The cabinet costs approximately $300 but in reality you have to expect to spend about $500 with extras.

I made a base from 3/4" plywood and four pieces of 4" x 4" cedar post material. Drywall screws and glue fasten the wood pieces together and more of the same screws were used to attach the cabinet legs to the four posts. I used small casters so that the cabinet would not be so high that it would be uncomfortable to use for a six footer like myself.

Using a vacuum cleaner is a must. Without one, the dust that is created by the blasting process would make it impossible to see inside the cabinet. I used a small Rigid (Home Depot) shop vac so that it would fit on the base under the cabinet. That makes the whole blasting station easy to move around.

I find a top loading cabinet to be very convenient. The drawback is that you cannot add an extension to a side to allow for blasting longer items.

The small shop vac comes with a filter that allows small abrasive particles to pass through the filter, ruin the motor and make their way out of the exhaust. So, I changed the vacuum's included filter to one from the Home Depot that traps fine particles. The combination of small shop vac and fine filter is a very inexpensive alternative to a large dust collection system. The downside is that the vacuum has to be emptied and the filter cleaned more frequently.

About abrasives.....

TP Tools sells abrasives at reasonable prices and I get them within two days after placing an order. The abrasive material that I use most of the time is Silicon Carbide which is pretty expensive....$75 plus shipping for a 50 pound box. Silicon Carbide is fast cutting, long lasting and very low dust producing. I occasionally use glass beads on items that require a smoother finish. TP tools sells Glass Beads for $35 for a 50 pound box.

I use about 16 pounds of material whenever I change the abrasive material so a 50 pound box lasts a pretty long time.

Do not think that you can save money by using sand in a blasting cabinet. Sand doesn't last long and it produces so much dust that you cannot see what you are blasting. Also, sand dust is quite dangerous to breathe. Think silicosis!

Notice the switches and receptacles that I mounted to control the vacuum cleaner and lights. Having the switches close by really helps.

For very large items that will not fit into the cabinet I use this sandblaster. You can buy them from Harbor Freight, eBay etc for about $80 to $100 and they use real sand.

The sand must be screened before use to prevent clogging and it is not recycled as the blasting media in a cabinet is. These sandblasters are not to be used indoors and don't forget to wear long sleeve shirts and full head protection! They also use a large volume of air so a large and expensive compressor is necessary.

As always, you can see larger versions of these photos at my Flickr site. Make sure you click on your browser's "Back" button to return to this page.

Another Trip to the Machine Shop is in My Future!

2007-09-13T15:18:00.000-04:00

Until today I thought that the only bearings that had to be replaced in the rear axle were those on the axle shafts. I just had them pressed on and the shafts were ready to reinstall. I surely was well on my way to having the rear axle back in the truck by the end of the weekend. Yippee! Nope! Not so fast!

After I took the pinion shaft seal out, I looked at the outer bearing.....pitted. I decided to delve even deeper and found the case bearings pitted along with the inner pinion bearing. Not only pitting but a lot of free play.

Did you ever take something apart and wish you didn't? Did you ever take a clock apart to see what makes it tick? Well, as of now I have no regrets about taking the rear axle apart but I wonder how long it will take for me to put it all back together and have it work properly!

Welcome to the inside of a rear axle.

The only remaining components in the axle housing are the two pinion shaft bearing races. The removal of the old and installation of the new races will be done at the local machine shop.

These are the differential case, ring gear and pinion shaft from the 7.25" integral carrier type axle. I do not plan to disassemble the differential case. I will, however, have new bearings installed.

The pinion shaft bearings preload spacer is on the left along with the outer pinion shaft bearing on the right.

The closeup photo below shows how badly the bearing has pitted. The differential bearings and the pinion shaft bearings have the same pitted condition.

You can see larger versions of the photos on my Flicker page. Don't forget to hit the "Back" button on your favorite browser to return to this page.

Two Pieces Done and Thousands to Go!

2007-09-12T18:05:00.000-04:00

The deflector after brazing and media blasting. Nobody ever said that I was an expert at brazing but nobody will ever see the bead after it is painted and under the truck!

The yoke (flange) and deflector finally come together as an assembly ready to install on the pinion shaft.

It may seem counterproductive to refinish parts before assembly but media-blasted steel and iron rust very quickly if not sealed with paint. When the axle is fully assembled, it will be painted as an assembly and that will take care of any chips and flaws in the painted components.

There is Always Something to Keep Me Busy!

2007-09-11T13:05:00.000-04:00

The rear axle project is taking longer than I expected. I spent a couple hours cleaning someone's poorly applied paint from the axle so that I can repaint it properly.

I removed the yoke from the pinion shaft in order to replace the seal and I discovered that the bearings had too much play (too little pre-load) in them. I hope that a bit of extra tightening on the pinion shaft nut will allow the pre-load spacer to compress enough to allow me to eliminate the play in the bearings.

This is the yoke which Ford refers to as a "Flange" in the shop manual. Notice the groove cut into the sealing surface. That groove must have been made by the "deflector" rotating in that area over many years and miles.

The deflector has a large tear which has to be repaired. I plan to braze it back together and more than likely a bead of brazing rod material will make the deflector as good as new.

As always, you can see larger versions of the photos by clicking on the "buttons" on this page or for even larger versions, go to my flickr site. Please make sure that you return to this page by clicking the "Back" button on your browser.

Rear Axle Progress

2007-09-05T10:23:00.000-04:00

The machine shop at Tri-County Motor Parts in Glens Falls, NY bead-blasted the axle shafts and installed new National brand bearings. The total cost for the bearings, bead-blasting and press time was $102. I have to believe that was a good price.

After painting.....

The above photos of a painted shaft were taken before I noticed that the shafts had pitted grooves in the areas where the seals rubbed material away.

The photo below shows the area on the axle shaft that the original seal rubbed against. Notice the extreme pitting and the groove that was cut into the shaft after many miles. I had Tri-County put both axles on a crankshaft lathe and polish the sealing area.

When I install the new seals, I will install them at a depth that will allow the seal to rub against a polished, smooth area instead of the pitted groove.

For more and larger photos of the axle restoration progress, please visit this link. Use your browser's "Back" button to return to this page.

The Spring Special

2007-08-30T11:15:00.000-04:00

"This was a monthly dealer announcement that was never meant to be seen by the customer."

"The promotion itself wasn't a secret, but what was sensitive was the fact that the package was included at no charge.

The original sales invoice on my Special included the line "Special Promotion Package (N/C)" but I would be willing to bet that some dealers weren't so generous."

Editor's note: The image and text was provided by Jay L. I appreciate his contribution to this blog.

Thanks, Jay!

Choices! Decisions!

2007-08-23T14:23:00.000-04:00

I knew from the very start that the project had to meet the certain criteria. These are listed in no specific order:

It was not going to be restored to original status.
The finished cost had to be kept under $20,000, including the initial cost of the vehicle.
The bodywork and paint had to be kept to a cost of under $10,000 which would limit the restoration to somewhat less than "Trailer Queen" status. Bodywork entails many hours of labor if it is done properly. I have neither the skills nor equipment to handle the job.
The vehicle was to be used and not kept in a garage waiting for sunny days.
It had to be safe and reliable.
It was not going to have a flashy nor trendy color.

The first concern that had to be addressed was finding a body shop that would take on the project. That was not as easy as I had imagined.

It seems that modern-day body shops don't have the time for projects that require bodywork other than panel replacement. Additionally, many body shop employees don't know how to use a hammer and dolly to repair dents. I made dozens of calls to local body shops that didn't pan out.

I finally contacted the Maaco shop in Albany, NY and the owner, Mike, was interested in the project but he wanted to see it in person before committing to the project. Since there was no running gear for me to drive it to him, he waited until he had other business in my area which is about an hour drive from his shop.

A week or so later, he saw the body and the work that had to be done and when I told him that there was no rush nor timetable to finish the project, he agreed to take it on. He arranged for a flatbed truck to have it delivered to his shop. Little did I realize at that time that it would be gone for three years!

After the body was taken away, I had many boxes of parts to store away until they could be restored. Other projects in the home and garden were more important at that time so I put the restoration on the back burner. I did, however, give some thought to the instrument cluster.

The instrument cluster was in pitiful shape. The black panel over the gauges and indicator lights was rusted and painted over. The silk-screened lettering was painted over and replaced by a previous owner with hand painted markings!

The gauges had faded pointers and the backgrounds looked horrible. Could I live with them in that condition? NO! A few choices were available:

Find a better used cluster
Restore the original cluster
Replace the gauges with Stewart Warner gauges and fabricate a custom cluster

I chose to have the cluster professionally restored. After a bit of research and shopping around I decided to use APT Instruments International, Inc. for the restoration.

Included in the restoration was:

Bead-blasting, sanding and painting the black bezel
Silk-Screening new letters and markings using the original Ford font
Refinishing the dials which included polishing and painting
Repainting the pointers
Cleaning, lubricating and calibration of the gauge mechanisms
Fabricating new lenses for the turn signals, high beams and oil and temperature lights
Refinishing the back panel
Assembly of cluster and final testing

The total cost was about $525.

The Candidate

2007-08-21T18:16:00.000-04:00

These photos were taken years before I had any intention of creating this blog so there are not that many photos which chronicle the process until years later.

This is the candidate for the restoration project, a 1965 Ford Econoline 5-Window Pickup. In this photo, you will see mounting holes along the body's side for chrome trim that was included in the "Econoline Pickup Special" package that was made available in May and June of 1965. That package is commonly referred to as the "Spring Special."

I acquired this truck in December 2002 in nearly rust-free condition. The tailgate had the usual rust at the lower corners but the rest of the truck was free of perforations except for a few pinholes in the cab's floor. There were many small dents on the body as would be expected for its age. The largest dent was next to the right headlight bezel.

The Vehicle Warranty Plate is affixed to the driver's side door. In the case of this truck the V.I.N. on the plate matches the V.I.N. on the floor of the vehicle. That is a good sign that the vehicle has the original driver's side door.

The COLOR "W" on the Warranty Plate signifies that the vehicle was originally Medium Blue. That color is clearly visible in the photos of the interior and also in the photo of the front of the vehicle where the headlights were removed.

Notice in this photo how the dashboard had been cut to accept an aftermarket radio. The stock radio was a manually-tuned AM radio with a removable faceplate which housed the dial and knobs. There were only three small round holes in the dashboard for the original radio installation.

The engine is not the original 170 CID engine but instead it is a 200 CID engine from a 1966 Ford Falcon. The head is from a 1967 Falcon.

Since this restoration is not going to be a "Concours" entrant, I am going to use this engine in the truck after it is rebuilt.

This photo shows the engine still on the crane just before it is mounted on the engine stand to be disassembled.

After the engine was removed and disassembled, the block, head and crankshaft were taken to a machine shop for total restoration. All of the small parts were packed in boxes and marked with the contents. The small fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws were put into zip-lock bags and marked with the contents.

"...Only the beginning. Only just the start"... Beginnings,The Chicago Transit Authority (Chicago), 1969

2007-08-20T03:18:00.003-04:00

After restoring this
1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
to TROPHY-WINNING status,
I decided that it was time for a new project.

This is that project!

In the early 1960's, Ford introduced a new line of vans and pickup trucks known as Econolines.

These vehicles featured inline six-cylinder engines mounted between the seats and a very short wheelbase of only 90 inches which gave it great maneuverability.

The front seats were mounted over the front wheel housings and since the engine was mounted inside the cab the visibility was excellent through the 9.4 sq. ft. windshield.

The pickup variant has a bed that measures 7 feet long, 5 feet wide (49 inches between the wheel housings) and nearly 2 feet deep. With the available 240 cubic inch engine the truck was rated to carry 2,075 pounds of cargo.