Sunday, December 23, 2007

Steering Column and Shifter - Part 1

Every little project turns into something more time-consuming and involved. The steering column and gear shift linkage was one of those "little" projects.

Recently there was some discussion pertaining to the "springy, wavy washers" on the Yahoo "OldEconolines" Auto Group. Someone mentioned that they were called "spring tension washers." Someone else referred to them as "Belleville Washers" and that they were available at McMaster-Carr. Good leads both!

I visited the McMaster-Carr website and after much searching I found the perfect replacements for the "Curved Springs" used on the shifter tube.


I used digital calipers to check the original washer dimensions and a scale to determine the amount of weight needed to deflect the spring.

The original washer is on the left in the photos and the replacement is on the right side.


The replacements that I used are McMaster-Carr part number: 9715K91 and they are called "High Carbon Steel Curved Disk Springs."

The manufacturer is Gardner Spring and their part number is MU750-160. Gardner Spring calls them "Curved Springs." The cost is $10.64 for a package of 10 plus shipping from McMaster-Carr.


The next post to the blog will show the restoration of the steering column and shifter.

If you would like to contact me via email click here.
If you would like to see larger versions of these photos click here.

J-Bolts

Because the original J-bolts that held the fuel tank straps were destroyed in the process of removing the fuel tank, I needed new J-bolts. After wasting time trying to locate replacements, I decided to fabricate my own. It was suggested to me that I could use a threaded rod and bend it into the proper shape but there had to be a better way. I went to the local Lowe's store and found the perfect candidates for conversion....3/8 inch x 6 inch eye bolts. This is what I used:


Notice the original shape on the left side of the photo. The original J-bolt was cut to remove the fuel tank because the nut was frozen to the bolt. Notice how the eye bolt is very close in size to the original.


I cut the eye bolt at the spot shown in the photo. After filing the rough edge, I secured the bolt in a vice and heated the entire non-threaded area with a torch until it was bright red. The steel was then very easy to form into the proper shape with a pair of slip-joint pliers. I then reheated the bolt and quenched it in cold water to temper the steel somewhat.

After it was cool and dry, I media blasted it and painted it with lacquer prime and silver metallic lacquer. The total cost was about $2 for the two eye bolts and about a half hour time.

If you would like to contact me via email click here.
If you would like to see larger versions of these photos click here.